The honeymoon continued with an adventure in Sri Lanka… and I truly call it an adventure, believe me! Monkeys, varans, crocodiles, elephants, lotus flowers, mangrove forests, coconut trees, tea plantations, bazaars, merchants, tuk-tuks, monks, temples, tropical rains, bare feet, fish markets, catamarans, saris, and wonderful Ayurveda centers… all in one place? Well, yes!
I never dreamed I would come here; just a few years ago, I could hardly imagine where on the map this place was and what treasures could be discovered in this part of the world. I read about the former Ceylon, now Sri Lanka, before we set out on our trip, but nothing could describe the feelings I experienced there—everything seemed like it was from another dimension.
We left from Male with Colombo as our destination, a flight of about 1.5 hours, a huge plane with seats arranged in three rows, multicultural passengers, and food “from the house” with lots of curry 🙂
We arrived at Colombo airport when it was already dark outside, and after deboarding, we quickly looked for the exit gates to find our driver (we had the airport-to-hotel transfer included in the travel package).
Our first contact with Sri Lanka was a bit frightening, to be honest: armed soldiers at the airport exit, torrential rain, a sea of noisy people and cars trying to rush out.
In the crowd outside, we spotted our name on a sign being waved left and right, we got into the car, and sighed with relief… our adventure in Sri Lanka had begun.
7 Days in Sri Lanka
What can you do in Sri Lanka? A lot, but let me tell you what we did: we lounged on the terrace of the stunning hotel with an ocean view, admired the dozens of catamarans that went out for fishing each morning, and then joined the bravest tourists for a sea adventure, amused ourselves watching squirrels climb onto tables and try to steal our food, tasted dozens of prepared dishes, walked through the streets of Negombo both on foot and in the famous tuk-tuks, visited temples, and ventured into the lagoon.
The hotel reception staff connected us with a local guide who helped us visit a few of the attractions on our pre-planned list.
Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage
Located halfway between the capital Colombo and the ancient royal residence of Kandy, created to protect orphaned elephants found in the jungles of Sri Lanka, it is the largest sanctuary in the world, with over 100 caretakers and, I believe, just about as many elephants :), today being a popular attraction for locals and especially for tourists.
Here, I had the privilege of feeding a baby elephant, which in just a few seconds—exactly the time it took to snap a photo—managed to drink 1 liter of milk. The elephants bathing in the river near the sanctuary is a true spectacle that you should not miss!
For more useful information, you can find it here: Pinnawala elephant orphanage
The Temple of the Tooth Relic or Sri Dalada Maligawa
A Buddhist temple in the city of Kandy, located within the Royal Palace complex that houses the relic of Buddha’s tooth. Since ancient times, the relic has played an important role in local politics because it was believed that whoever possessed the relic, governed the country. Kandy was the last capital of the country during the reign of the kings.
Every Wednesday, there is a ritual to symbolically bathe the relic in a plant-based preparation called Nanumura Mangallaya. It is said that this blessed water has healing powers, which is why it is distributed among the attendees.
Once a year, the Esala Perahera Festival takes place here, lasting for 10 days. The festival is the most important Buddhist event in the world and includes spectacular dance performances: fire dances, whip dances, Kandyan dances, and over 100 decorated elephants.
Information about the 2016 Esala Perahera Festival can be found here: Esala Perahera.
Arriving in front of the temple, abandoned by the guide who did not want to enter with us this time, drenched by the rain we had already gotten used to during our stay in Sri Lanka, we passed the first gate with a checkpoint, took off our shoes (it is mandatory to enter all temples barefoot), passed the second checkpoint, this time more detailed, and disoriented by the journey and the unknown we were stepping into with bare feet, we entered without paying for the ticket. A big mistake! In a place where, if you glanced over the fence, you would see armed soldiers guarding the location, with specialized personnel for body and luggage checks, entering without purchasing an entry ticket made you feel like a small criminal. No one in the temple courtyard could direct us to the place where we could buy tickets, and it was our bad luck that we didn’t encounter anyone who spoke English. So, we timidly entered the temple, suspiciously watching anyone who got too close to us, and when we tried to enter one of the museums in the temple courtyard, the inevitable happened… we were asked for our tickets. The man at the counter, who did not speak English, looked at us with a questioning gaze: “What do you mean you don’t have tickets?”… Well, we didn’t have them. We tried to offer him the equivalent in cash, but he refused to take our money categorically… In the end, we realized he didn’t have a cash register for issuing the fiscal receipt. What receipt? We just wanted to get rid of the situation, we wanted to pay. We could have left the money on his counter and run away, but we thought that wasn’t a very smart solution, so we continued to communicate with signs and halting words in broken English… and suddenly, I felt like I could understand his desperate message, what he was saying sounded like something that could mean “too much, too much”. Eureka! I got the message, it was too much money for a “tip”. Interesting attitude… I rushed and took part of the money from the counter; in the end, the man seemed satisfied… and we were very pleased.
We continued our walk through the impressive temple courtyard, admired the Buddhist statues, and the magnificent lotus and frangipani flower offerings arranged at their feet, monks praying, the classic Kandyana architecture of the buildings, the details, and the elaborate paintings.
Lesson: Before entering a temple, first look for the ticket payment points, and don’t panic over minor issues… you won’t face any consequences, the people are actually peaceful 🙂
For more useful information, click here: Temple of the tooth
Royal Botanical Garden Peradeniya
The botanical garden is located approximately 5.5 km west of Kandy city and is very famous for its collection of orchids. It covers 60 hectares and attracts over 2 million visitors annually, hosting over 4,000 species of plants: orchids, spices, medicinal plants, palm trees, and around 10,000 trees. The stars of the garden are the giant bamboo plants from Myanmar that can grow up to 60 meters tall. Absolutely spectacular is a centuries-old banyan tree whose roots span about 1,800 square meters, and one of the 200 species of palm trees, native to the Seychelles, produces the largest seeds.
Here, we also met a charming family of monkeys, very friendly and accustomed to the hustle and bustle of the garden.
Kadugannawa Tea Factory
At the tea factory, we were able to observe the tea production process: green, gray, and black tea, which we could also purchase from the factory shop. Of course, we also had a tasting of tea on the house, accompanied by a delicious natural sweetener, diabetic-friendly, extracted from palm trees.
Colombo
Colombo is the capital of Sri Lanka and the largest city in the country, with a population of 737,390. We visited the city from the car, with our guide giving us a true city tour. The only stops we made were at a bazaar and the Gangaramaya Temple.
Gangaramaya Temple, one of the most important temples in Colombo, is over 120 years old and features a mix of Sri Lankan, Thai, and Chinese architecture.
The Buddhist temple is located near Beira Lake and consists of several buildings housing a library, a museum, a residential hall, classrooms, and the Simamalaka altar, which was built with donations from a Muslim sponsor and is very attractive to tourists. Today, the temple is not only a place of Buddhist worship but also a center of learning, with over 50 technical courses being offered at the Jinarathana Sri Training Center, all free of charge for participants.
The impressive collections of Buddhist statues of all sizes and shapes, with different representations due to their countries of origin, as well as the jewelry, coins, watches, and vintage cars donated to the temple, overwhelmed us.
The value of the treasures accumulated over time in the temple is incalculable.
More useful information can be found here: http://gangaramaya.com/
Negombo
Negombo is an important city in Sri Lanka, the fifth largest, located on the western coast of the island at the mouth of Negombo Lagoon, just 7 km from Bandaranaike International Airport and 35 km from the capital Colombo, with a population of approximately 130,000.
When it comes to religion, you may be surprised to learn that, since the beginning of European colonization, the predominant religion in Negombo has been Catholicism, with over 20 Roman Catholic churches in the city. Alongside them, Muslims, Buddhists, and Hindus coexist peacefully.
Negombo has a small port, and the main occupations of its residents are fishing, tourism, the production of cinnamon, pottery, and brass articles.
In Negombo, we walked mostly on foot through the crowded streets among the diverse and noisy people. The most common means of transport, the tuk tuk, didn’t inspire us with much confidence at first due to the completely unique driving style… here, signaling doesn’t exist, you honk your horn, and then overtake. However, we bravely took the tuk tuk to the city center to visit the bazaars, and I can’t say I disliked it… it was quite the experience.
The shops tempt you into buying all sorts of things, with souvenirs awaiting buyers: scarves, shawls, traditional sarees, wooden elephants, leather goods, and many other items inscribed with “Sri Lanka”. The very persistent vendors will try to convince you to step into their shops right from the door. Around the hotel, the security guards made sure nothing spoiled the mood of the guests: the numerous crows begging for food at the outdoor cafes, the pesky squirrels climbing tables, and the unwanted merchants were their main targets.
The beach in Negombo is wide with an orange surface, black beneath the surface, and the ocean water is extremely rough, yet still unbelievably beautiful and peaceful… you just have to know how to look at it.
The dozens of patched-up catamarans leaving for open waters early in the morning with skilled fishermen were like something from a story, an image I still have in my mind.
I must note that Negombo is not exactly a clean city. You will notice the litter even on the beach, the main streets, and the Dutch canal, which reaches its peak here. Boat rides are available on the canal, which also leads to the Negombo Lagoon, a true natural wonder.
Negombo Lagoon
It was one of the most beautiful experiences in Sri Lanka, although the boat ride with the engine was a bit scary.
We left from the hotel beach and ventured into the huge ocean waves, with a short stop at the fish market. There, we got off the boat and walked to another point where we boarded a different boat towards the lagoon, where the water was much friendlier. The stop had three purposes: visiting the fish market, buying bananas for the monkeys we were about to meet in the lagoon, and passing the harbor customs checkpoint. So, after the customs point, we boarded again and set off in search of monkeys, monitor lizards, crocodiles, and the beautiful landscapes with mangrove forests and huge lotus flowers.
And yes, we found all of them in this enchanting place.
Jasmin Villa Ayurvedic Resort Center
Relaxation and top-notch services! Massage, flower baths, sauna with plants, cosmetic treatments, tea, and fruits courtesy of the house.
God led us to meet 4 extraordinary Romanians during this wonderful trip, whose presence we enjoyed in the last days. Two young people from Cluj, also on their honeymoon like us, and two very friendly gentlemen living in Germany, who regularly visit Sri Lanka to benefit from Ayurveda medicine. Thanks to them, we had the opportunity to experience a 4-hour relaxation session at Jasmin Ayurvedic Resort, which was significantly more affordable than the prices offered by the hotel.
For more information, you can find it here: Jasmin Villa Ayurvedic Resort
Accommodation in Negombo – Hotel Jetwing Sea
I wholeheartedly recommend the Jetwing Sea hotel, without a doubt in my mind that its services and wonderful staff will meet the expectations of even the most discerning guests.
Located 3 km from the city center, on the coast of Negombo, with a panoramic view of the ocean and the golden beach, featuring a modern but warm design, Jetwing Sea is the ideal destination for families and a perfect retreat for young lovers.
We spent hours on the restaurant terrace, just a few meters from the ocean, one of our favorite spots during this trip.
The waiters, with their exceptional politeness, made us feel at home with their pleasant presence, calm and open attitude, and the constant smiles they wore throughout the seven days we spent there.
As for the food…a gastronomic paradise. If you ever visit here, you must try the delicious fresh fruit juices, incredibly tasty fresh fruits, a variety of colorful pastries and mousses, and the different dishes cooked to your liking. The menu was extremely diverse, with both local and international dishes.
Beer drinkers, try the Lion beer produced in Sri Lanka…you won’t be disappointed!
Tips and Tricks
- The currency used in Sri Lanka is the Rupee, but you can also use US dollars inside hotels. We exchanged money at the airport, at the hotel, and in Negombo. The best exchange rate was at a currency exchange office in Negombo, where everything was fast and secure.
- Be careful at airport currency exchange offices; always count your money! We almost got scammed there, as the exchange office tried twice to give us less money, hoping we wouldn’t count it in our rush.
- In Sri Lanka, you’ll meet very helpful and attentive people… for tips. If you notice someone approaching you as you exit the airport, grabbing your luggage, don’t panic. They’re just helping you quickly load it into the trunk… for a tip, of course!
- I recommend booking the all-inclusive package at this hotel… The food was absolutely delicious and varied, with a new menu every day, sometimes even à la carte.
- For travelers needing transportation with a car, the hotel reception can help you contact guides, and prices are negotiable.
- Take the boat cruise in the Negombo Lagoon! It was one of the most beautiful experiences of our trip! You can buy it from local tour agencies, and we paid $40 per person. The price is negotiable. I recommend the route that starts from the beach, not the one from the Dutch canal.
- The visiting hours for the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage start at 8:30 AM and end at 6:00 PM every day. The times when baby elephants are fed are: 9:15 AM, 1:15 PM, and 5:00 PM, and bathing hours at the river are 10:00 AM and 2:00 PM. The ticket costs $16 for adults and $8 for children. If you want to feed the baby elephants, you need to buy a special ticket at the entrance.
- Taking off your shoes before entering temples is mandatory! You will find designated spots to leave your shoes.
- Don’t take pictures with Buddha statues unless you’re facing them! It is strictly forbidden to turn your back on a Buddha statue in Sri Lanka. Do not make obscene gestures, and dress modestly, as you are in a temple.
- Drugs are punishable by death in Sri Lanka, both in terms of consumption and possession.
- It is forbidden to bring plants or shells into Sri Lanka, as indicated by the sign at the airport, right before luggage drop-off. If local vendors try to sell you giant shells, it’s not worth the risk.
- Try all types of bananas (butter banana, lemon banana, red banana, etc.).
- If you’re interested in Ayurveda and specific massages, I do not recommend the ones found everywhere in the city due to poor hygiene or the ones offered at hotels, which tend to be overpriced (100 dollars per person for an hour and a half). Look for the Jasmin Villa Ayurvedic Resort – http://www.jasminvillaayurvedicresort.com/.
- Be cautious, the tap water in Sri Lanka is not potable! Use bottled water provided by the hotel, even for brushing your teeth. The Jetwing Sea hotel had its own water treatment and bottling station.
For tours in Sri Lanka – Sri Lanka Tours
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Local Guide +94 77 216 2906 (on Facebook Esela Tours)
Love,
A.C.